Today we would like to show you a bit around one of the neighborhoods with more character of Sevilla: Triana, like a village inside Sevilla city. Where there the flamenco crib is and where it’s large heritage still alive on the streets.
During the 70s the flamenco was being defined and the scene was effervescent. Triana was the meeting point for flamenco singers who came from Jerez or Cádiz and where the different styles were set. We found a very beautiful documentary that explores the early roots of the flamenco, something to enjoy and admire.
Ritio y geografía del cante flamenco. Triana en los 70's
The Guadalquivir River defines a lot the soul of Triana, the naval tradiction was installed there in the early years. In Triana was located the University of “Mareantes” (a romantic and old style word to refer those who were sailors and were driving by the sea). In this university was were the seaman were recruit and trained and was also the place where the ships, first commanded by Magallanes and after his dead by el Cano, managed to finish the first round around the world. From Triana was the sailor who saw for first time what today is America: Rodrigo de Triana.
Triana is also well known for the tradition of artisanal pottery, for the sailors, dancers and bullfighters. Triana’s status is very high and extremely rich. A big mystery. Is incredible all that has happened in this few streets, cause when you count house by house, in which of them have not born a bullfighter, a cabaret singer a painter or any kind of artist.
Juan Belmonte, the most relevant bullfighter and considerate by many the founder of the modern bullfighting, grew up in Triana. Belmonte established a new way of dancing with the bull, in which the aesthetic was very important and a much shorter distance with the bull and with a slower rhythm where he seemed to be talking with the bull characterized his way. Today there is a statue in the Altozano Square that recalls his art.
But there are many more, Naranjito de Triana, also contemporanean like Antonio Canales a dancer, Paz Vega an actress that triumph in Hollywood and the flamenco singers Lole y Manuel.
But, let’s go! We want to explore Triana, its fried fish, the courtyard rejoicing, jasmine pots and lady of the night, lime walls, geranium cans, velás and other neighboring parties. So we cross the iron Bridge of Isabel II, built in 1845 and right in our right hand we find the Virgen del Carmen Chapel, patron saint of the sailors, which was built by the well-famous architect Aníbal González.
We recommend exploring and getting lot in the racket of the food market, what is built on top of the archeological park and the ruins of San Jorge Castle. San Jorge Castle was before a prison and the headquarter of the Inquisition in Sevilla when the Catholic Kings arrived. There is a small alley just behind the market, called “callejón de la Inquisición” that was the street where the prisioners during the Inquisition were drive. The alley ends in a beautiful street by the riverside called Pasaje de la O.
We will go now around Alfarería street where we could look around the ceramics shops. There is a large tradition in ceramics in Triana and its remains alive. There is a Ceramic Museum (Antillano Campos, 14) that was opened last year in the old Santa Ana's fabric a worth a visit.
Now we started to feel like a snack, and can't not resist to have a dogfish tapa that small all over San Jacinto street before going to Santa Ana Church (Vázquez de Leca street) to admire the altarpiece. This church was ordered to be built by Alfonso X el Sabio, to express his gratitude to the virgin who cured his eyes.
Now we take Betis street, that connects the bridges of Isabel II with the San Telmo one’s. This street architecture is very beautiful, framed by colorful narrow houses and small trees. Here is one of the very few places where you can have a panoramic view of Sevilla and condense from the Torre del Oro, the Cathedral at the end, the Guadalquivir, Paseo Colón..
And for finishing the first day that we spend in Triana we definitely recommend a restaurant called Río Grande which is an institution in Sevilla, with a magical views over the city. Is located in Betis street just before arriving to Plaza de Cuba. Has a large terrace where to enjoy the dinner with views that no other place can offer you in Sevilla.
The menu is “diverse and innovative in constant evolution according to our customers’ opinions and our creative cooks” as they define themself. Rio Grande is an ideal place to enjoy products from the Andalusia coast, such as Prawn Carpaccio from Huelva, Red Tuna Tartar from Cadiz and Lobster Ragout. From Black Rice, Shellfish Paella or Iberian pig to vegetarian and vegan menu, there are dishes for everybody. And all so delicious!!
We had as starter we had goat cheese salad with wild red fruits and raspberry and honey vinaigrette. Also sautéed artichokes with toasted garlic and almonds over orange blossom sauce.
As main dish I had a superb grilled tuna with pisto and egg.
Highly recommend the bar close to the riverbank for a drink after dinner in their bar terrace, Puerto de Cuba, just right in the river bank. You can even walk to the pier and its specially beautiful at night.
If you want you can book a table in Río Grande straight from their website; http://riogrande-sevilla.com/contacto-y-reservas
Hope you have a nice time in Triana and you get to experiment the most interesting and beautiful thing that this place has, its people. We promise more post in our blog about Triana cause this is just a light intro.
Have a nice day!